This concentrated red is saturated by black currant, blackberry and blueberry flavors, with notes of iron, tar, tobacco and wild herbs chiming in as it evolves toward the long finish. So fresh and fruity, it's hard to believe this is a 2017 if not for the stiff tannins. Shows superb balance and complexity. Best from 2025 through 2045. 1,415 cases made, 250 cases imported.

This is one of the icon wines of Montalcino and one of the bottles that best captures the character of this prized vineyard cru. Altesino farms 4.5 hectares in Montosoli at 350 meters in elevation with galestro soils. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is darkly concentrated and rich. It shows an almost creamy consistency that was not easy to achieve in this hot vintage that tends to underline tannic power and alcohol. Instead, this wine offers a steady stream of dark fruit flavors that transition to spice, leather and sweet tobacco. Production is limited to 15,000 bottles.

The aromatics alone are worth the price of entry on the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli. A dazzling display is revealed as this opens like a basket of freshly picked flowers with ripe strawberries, cloves and a hint of plum sauce that adds gravitas. Its elegance is nicely matched by a balanced inner sweetness, as mineral-tinged red berries are contrasted by hints of sour citrus and savory spice. Fine tannins mount, yet are almost imperceptible until the finish, where notes of blood orange mingle with licorice and inner rose. In a word, spellbinding. While some cellaring will be needed, I expect the 2017 Montosoli to enjoy a broad, open and highly pleasurable drinking window.