The dark and dusty-styled 2014 Taurasi Vigna Cinque Querce opens slowly in the glass, as black cherries and plums give way to hints of sage and smoke. Its textures are wonderfully silky in feel, yet offset by a salty mix of acids and minerals that give way to tart wild berries and inner violet florals. It tapers off long, lightly structured and remarkably fresh for such a young Taurasi, with nuanced tannins that mingle with sour cherry to create a slightly chewy yet highly enjoyable finale. The 2014 may not possess the concentration and power of the best vintages, but it instead impresses with its sculpted feel, savoriness and earlier appeal. That said, a year or two of cellaring is still recommended.

An elegant version that marries fine tannins and lightly juicy acidity with a creamy range of dried black cherry, stemmy herb, smoke and sandalwood notes that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.