As usual, the 2017 RunRig is approximately 2% Viognier. It spent almost 30 months in oak, 40% of which was new. Hints of peach or apricot appear on the nose, alongside notes of hickory smoke, cherries and baking spices. It's full-bodied and concentrated but supple and silky enough to seem lighter in the mouth, showing tremendous length and elegance on the finish, where it adds nuances of cinnamon and cocoa.

Focuses on a beam of pure fruit flavors, with crushed raspberry, maraschino cherry, framboise and blueberry, highlighted by cream soda, nutmeg and cigar box details. Impressive for its boldness, but also shows plenty of restraint, with a stunning finish that goes on and on. Shiraz and Viognier. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases imported.

The cool vintage has done great things for Torbreck's most premium Shiraz. While it still sports broad shoulders, this bottling offers dashes of elegance and freshness. Black currant, plum, beet root, cocoa powder and gentle herbs and spices are supported by cola-like oak. The tannins are muscular but fine, tautly woven into the sleek mouthfeel. This should be a stunner with time. Drink 2022-2040.