A well-cut white, with a tang of salinity underscoring notes of crunchy pear, melon rind, grapefruit pith and a fragrant skein of ground cardamom and anise. Light- to medium-bodied and harmonious, with a lip-smacking finish. Drink now through 2026. 1,250 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.

The 2022 Salto Moscofilero Wild Yeast, a Mavrofilero clone actually (Skouras says he was the first to isolate it), comes in at 12.1% alcohol, seven grams of acidity and less than a gram of residual sugar. It's a pretty energetic wine most years, including this one, reminding me at times of a Dry Riesling. There does seem to be a hint of green in the background, but that's hardly dominant. Unlike the regular Moschofilero, this is not always as flavorful and as fruity, but the precision and tension give it a set of bragging rights to call its own. Still, this is tense and a little tart in its youth (in bottle only some 90 days), and it is a little lacking in expression today. Can it develop? It has a good shot, but this might be a Moschofilero that is best drunk at the end of the year or next spring to give it some settle-down time. There is no rush. Under screw cap, it should hold rather well, for the rest of the decade or more, although I like to stay conservative in drinking windows with this grape.

Floral aromas and bright acidity headline this straw-colored Moschofilero. Grapes come from a high-elevation plot in the Mantinia region of the Peloponnese. Juicy lemon and white flower aromas and flavors show throughout, with ripe white peach and herbal notes. Vinified with wild yeasts in stainless steel, the wine has a long, zesty finish.