A touch of leesy reduction that will likely dissipate by the time of bottling mingles with notes of crisp green apple and wheat toast, introducing the 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Porusots, a medium to full-bodied, ample and tight-knit wine with attractive purity and a long, saline finish.

The 2017 Meursault Les Porusots ler Cru shows a very small reduction on the nose and lacks a little intensity, although it does find its voice with 5-10 minutes in the glass. But you still want more, considering this is a Premier Cru. The palate is well balanced, very citric and quite Puligny-like in style, and maybe more malic toward the finish, which delivers a lovely spicy aftertaste. More persistence would not have gone amiss, though that may develop with time. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-les-Beaune.