Tightly knit and racy, with an overtone of salted almond finely meshed with notes of yellow plum, oyster shell and pickled ginger, riding the detailed mousse. Disgorged October 2017. Drink now through 2022.

The NV Extra Brut Esprit de Craie is 100% Chardonnay from Avize, Oger and Grauves. Brisk and vibrant in the glass, the Esprit de Craie offers up plenty of citrus, floral and mineral character, all in a nervy, mid-weight style that is hugely appealing. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: October 18, 2021.

Revisited from the October 2017 disgorgement, Varnier-Fannière's NV Extra Brut Esprit de Craie continues to show well, delivering an inviting bouquet of nougat, preserved lemon and rock salt. Medium to full-bodied, it's pure and delicate, with ripe but racy acids, elegantly chalky structure and a nicely defined fisnih.