Menthol, iris and French oak aromas come to the forefront. On the palate, notes of vanilla and coffee bean accent a core of dried black cherry while firm, close-grained tannins provide tight support. Drink 2025-2032.

This vintage from Mauro Veglio is a degree lighter in color and contrasts, and that less-saturated appearance is a common trait found across many of the wines from this warm and hot growing season. The Nebbiolo grape is particularly color sensitive, and the 2017 Barolo Gattera sees its fruit sourced from 70-year-old vines in La Morra, a site that is already earmarked for its delicate and nuanced approach. The bouquet is broad and not totally defined here, with some exotic fruit that is mixed with wild berry and peach blossom. I feel that the wine is short in the mid-palate, and that prompts me to suggest a shorter drinking window as a result. I am less convinced by this 9,000-bottle Gattera release than I am by the other wines in this flight from Mauro Veglio.

The 2017 Barolo Gattera has a bit more weight and density than most of the other wines in this range, but it, too, is a bit fleeting in feel. Dark cherry, mocha, spice, leather and menthol bring out slightly darker tonalities of Nebbiolo fruit.

Macerated cherry and plum aromas and flavors are augmented by juniper and camphor in this supple red, which firms up on the finish, where the tannins leave an astringent feel. Best from 2024 through 2038. 750 cases made, 250 cases imported.