Aromas of French oak, leather and espresso mingle with whiffs of spiced plum. The firm palate features dried cherry, licorice and tobacco framed in tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. It closes on a note of coffee bean. Drink 2024-2028.

The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala is marked by a riper fruit profile than is common here, along with more overt sweetness and oak influence. There is plenty of depth, but less in the way of Sangiovese typicity. Chocolate, sweet spice and leather are front and center. This is an especially bombastic style that is more about intensity than finesse. Some readers may enjoy it more than I do.

Fresh and focused, delivering black cherry, blackberry and stone flavors, with a structure that borders on racy. This firms up nicely on the lingering finish, which bears tinges of iron and sanguine. Best from 2023 through 2035.