What fun, excitement and joy it will be to compare the four perfect wines Perse has made in 2005, 2009, 2010 and, of course, the 2000, in 25 or so years. This wine is truly profound Bordeaux. Everything is in place - remarkable concentration and a beautiful nose of cedar and ripe blackcurrant and blackberry with some kirsch and spice box in the background. Lavishly rich, with slightly more structure and delineation than the more Rabelaisian 2009, this wine does show some serious tannins in the finish, and comes across as incredibly youthful. Of course, it's five years old, but it tastes more like a just-bottled barrel sample than a 2010. In any event, this wine is set for a long, long life and should be forgotten for at least another decade. Consume it over the following 75 or more years.

An immense wine, with tiers of roasted fig, boysenberry confiture, warm plum sauce, Black Forest cake and raspberry ganache that flow authoritatively, while a terrific graphite underpinning provides support. The explosive finish is framed by roasted apple wood and licorice snap notes. Shows terrific muscle, but the purity and minerality is there as well. Needs time. Best from 2020 through 2040. 7,083 cases made.