This is a likable, multi-regional Chardonnay blend that is at first tightly reined and straightforward in nature, but reveals more layers as it opens in the glass. It weaves stone fruit, pineapple, salted nuts and toasty characters into a slippery, creamy mouthfeel. The oak is present but not overwhelming and an appealing salted peach note lingers on the finish. It's a solid example of modern Aussie Chardonnay.

Sourced from Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and Tumbarumba, Penfolds is seeking to position the 2019 Bin 311 Chardonnay as something of a "Junior Yattarna." I guess that's one way to characterize the stuff that doesn't make the cut for the flagship Chardonnay. In truth, this is a fine wine in its own right, boasting struck-match complexity on the nose alongside hints of apple, white peach and lime. Barrel fermented and matured in 35% new French oak, it's medium-bodied and silky textured, but it hides the oak well, ending in a lingering wash of citrus.

Fresh and citrusy up front, with lemon zest, tangerine and pomelo flavors that are clear and bright, on a juicy frame. Balanced, with notes of toasted hazelnut and spice on the finish, which gain momentum. Drink now through 2030.