There is a more forward personality to the 2017 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva, which pours a slightly darker hue. Aromas of black cherry, scorched earth, and violets emerge from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it delivers more ripe concentration, with black raspberry, tea leaf, cedar, and rosemary. It is elegant yet expressive of the warm vintage, with fine, ripe tannins and ripe fresh fruit through the mid-palate and a great balance between roundness and elegance. Drink 2024-2040.

This red starts out round, turning more precise and taut as it builds to the finish. Shows cherry, wild herb, soy and loam flavors that ply the supple texture, before the tannins exert their influence and the finish tightens up (a good sign for the future). Best from 2025 through 2043. 1,100 cases made, 200 cases imported.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 13,000 bottles made) shows dark fruit, dried cherry and baked plum. The wine is slightly subdued aromatically speaking compared to the new Brunello annata release, and I chalk that up to the very hot and dry conditions of the relentless 2017 summer. Cinnamon, cumin and crushed clove appear in a second wave and underline this Riserva's more elaborate aging regime. The finish is layered and rich with full-bodied Sangiovese intensity.