The 2019 Fonplégade is elegant, refined and full of character. Sweet dark cherry, chocolate, leather, spice, menthol and licorice build effortlessly in the glass. Fonplégade is a Saint-Émilion that emphasizes elegance over sheer power.

A fine texture with rich tannins and powerful structure give this wine its richness. The wine, under the ownership of Californians Denise and Stephen Adams, is concentrated and juicy, superripe, a sign of the high proportion of Merlot in the blend, and full-bodied. Organic and biodynamic.

From a great terroir on the south-facing hillside just outside of the village, the 2019 Château Fonplégade has pretty notes of ripe black cherries, cassis, spring flowers, sandalwood, and classy oak. I love the nose, and while it's still young and relatively unevolved, it already has hints of complexity and nuance, and the purity is spot on. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a great mid-palate and sweet, velvety tannins, it already offers pleasure yet will benefit from 4-6 years of bottle age, and I'd be shocked if it didn't evolve nicely for at least 15-20 years.

Shows the thickly textured dark fruit of the vintage, with steeped plum and blackberry notes cruising through slowly, carried by alder, loam and tobacco threads. Gains nuance as it airs in the glass, showing light chalky minerality for energy and balance in the process. Approachable but no rush. Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2036. 3,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.

Aromas of ripe cherries, licorice, crème de cassis, burning embers and loamy soil introduce the 2019 Fonplegade, a medium to full-bodied, muscular wine that's rich and powerful, reflecting its clay-rich soils. It's a fleshy, generous wine that represents a fine success in a more impactful style.