La Lecciaia's 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is an attractive, straightforward offering. Sweet scents of tobacco, juicy dark cherries, licorice, smoke and game add complexity as this supple, expressive wine opens up in the glass. A beautifully balanced, harmonious Brunello with virtually no hard edges, the 2008 should drink beautifully for another decade, if not more. It is one of Montalcino's under-the-radar jewels. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.

Mild, compact and fresh, this ruby-colored Brunello shows bright aromas of crisp berry fruit backed by vanilla, toasted almond, cola and a touch of campfire. The mouthfeel is streamlined and tight, making for a less informal expression of this greatest of Tuscan reds.